Figuring out the best 67 72 c10 exhaust routing can be a bit of a headache if you're working with a lowered truck or a custom suspension setup. These Action Line Chevys are beautiful, but their chassis layout—specifically the trailing arm rear suspension found on most of them—creates some unique tight spots that make running pipes a lot more complicated than on a modern truck. If you've spent any time under one of these, you know exactly what I'm talking about. You're juggling ground clearance, heat management, and that classic look, all while trying to keep the pipes from rattling against the frame every time you hit a bump.
Navigating the trailing arm crossmember
The biggest hurdle for any 67 72 c10 exhaust routing project is usually the center crossmember. If your truck has the factory trailing arm setup, you've got that massive piece of stamped steel right in the middle of the chassis. Most people want to tuck their exhaust up high to keep it out of sight and away from speed bumps, but the stock crossmember doesn't exactly make that easy. You usually have to either snake the pipes underneath it, which looks messy and kills your clearance, or find a way through it.
A lot of guys in the C10 community end up swapping that factory piece for an aftermarket high-clearance crossmember. These usually have pre-cut "exhaust hoops" or pass-through holes that let you run 2.5-inch or even 3-inch pipes straight through the center. It makes the routing much cleaner and keeps the exhaust tucked well above the bottom of the frame rails. If you're sticking with the stock crossmember, though, you'll have to get creative with some tight bends to keep things from hanging too low.
Over or under the rear axle
Once you've cleared the middle of the truck, the next big decision is how to handle the rear axle. This is where 67 72 c10 exhaust routing gets controversial in the forums. You essentially have two choices: go over the axle or dump it before the axle.
Going over the axle is the "correct" way if you want a full-length system, but it's a tight squeeze. Between the bed floor, the frame, and the moving axle housing, there isn't a ton of real estate. If your truck is bagged or significantly lowered, you almost always run into clearance issues here. You'll hear the exhaust "clunk" against the axle when the suspension compresses if you don't get the angles just right. Most shops will use a mandrel-bent over-the-axle pipe to maximize the flow while keeping the profile as slim as possible.
The alternative is dumping the exhaust right before the rear axle. This is way easier to install and keeps the back of the truck looking clean, but it comes with a trade-off. You're going to get more "drone" inside the cab because the sound is bouncing off the pavement and right into the floorboards. It's a classic look, but maybe not the best if you're planning on long highway cruises.
Exit strategies and aesthetics
Where the tips actually end up is the finishing touch on your 67 72 c10 exhaust routing. Back in the day, a lot of these trucks had the pipes exit straight out the back, tucked under the rear bumper. It's a timeless look, but it can be a pain if you have a rear-mounted fuel tank. If you've moved your gas tank from behind the seat to under the bed (which most of us do for safety), that tank now occupies the space where those pipes used to go.
Because of the fuel tank situation, side exits behind the rear tires have become the go-to for many C10 builds. It keeps the pipes away from the tank and gives the truck a bit of a muscle-truck vibe. Another cool option is the hidden exit, where the pipe is turned down toward the ground just behind the rear quarter panels so you can't see the tips at all. It's a very clean, "stealth" look that lets the lines of the truck speak for themselves.
Handling LS swaps and headers
If you've ditched the old 350 Small Block for a modern LS engine, your 67 72 c10 exhaust routing starts a bit differently. LS headers often point in slightly different directions than old-school manifolds, and they can be a bit wider. You really have to plan the front section of the exhaust carefully to avoid the steering linkage on the driver's side.
Most LS-swap headers for these trucks are designed to tuck the collectors close to the block, which helps with ground clearance. From there, you'll usually want to run a 2.5-inch system. While 3-inch pipes sound mean, they are a nightmare to route through the tight spots on a 67-72 frame. Unless you're pushing serious horsepower with a supercharger, 2.5-inch pipes are plenty for most street builds and make the installation process a whole lot less stressful.
The importance of hangers and heat
Don't overlook the hardware when you're mapping out your 67 72 c10 exhaust routing. Since these trucks have a fair amount of frame flex compared to modern vehicles, you need hangers that allow for a little bit of movement. Rigid hangers will eventually crack the welds on your pipes or even pull out of the frame. Heavy-duty rubber-insulated hangers are your best friend here. They keep the vibration out of the cab and let the exhaust "float" just enough.
Heat is the other big factor. The floorboards on these old Chevys can get pretty toasted, especially if you're running mufflers directly under the cab. If you're routing the pipes close to the floor or the fuel lines, it's worth sticking some heat shield material on the underside of the bed or wrapping the pipes in those specific areas. It's a small extra step that makes the truck a lot more comfortable to drive in the summer.
Final thoughts on DIY vs. Professional shops
You can definitely buy a pre-bent kit for 67 72 c10 exhaust routing, and for a stock-height truck, those usually bolt up without too much fuss. But let's be honest, almost nobody keeps these trucks at stock height. As soon as you add a drop kit, a C-notch, or a custom fuel tank, those "bolt-on" kits usually require some cutting and welding to fit properly.
If you have access to a lift and a welder, you can piece together a system using universal bends and straight sections. It's a fun weekend project, but it requires a lot of "measure twice, cut once" thinking. If you want that perfect, tucked-up look with zero rattles, taking it to a custom exhaust shop is often worth the money. A pro can snip and tuck the pipes into the contours of the frame in ways that a pre-made kit just can't match.
At the end of the day, the goal is to have a system that sounds great when you step on it but doesn't make your life miserable with drone or ground clearance issues. Whether you're going for a show-quality polished stainless look or just some functional aluminized steel, getting the routing right is what separates a great C10 build from one that's just okay. Take your time, plan for your future suspension moves, and make sure those pipes are tucked up high and tight.